Teaching as an ETA

I am now in my last week of teaching at the Federal University of Pernambuco.  It’s dawned on me that I’ve rarely written about my time teaching.  Maybe that’s because my days are so different from one to the next that there is no way for me to boil it down.  Well, I’m going to try… because this has been my job.  I’m an English Teaching Assistant!

When we first arrived in Recife, there was little consensus on how we as ETAs would be working with the English without Borders program.  The program itself had just started and they had never worked with ETAs before.  No one really knew which way was up.  We started visiting the classes to try and get a feel for the students’ levels and how the classes were structured.  I was never in the position of a “traditional teacher.”  Meaning, I never had a class of my own.  Which is good!  I’m not trained as a teacher and my time has been much better spent getting to visit and learn from 10 different teachers, each with 2-3 classes of their own.

During these visits I started to notice certain mistakes repeating themselves.  It’s been a never ending challenge to identity the source of mistakes and then work backwards to correct them.  My biggest ally through it all has been simultaneously learning Portuguese.  I hear students say things like, “I am making a research on fish.”  Or “Teacher, can I make a question?”  When I compare English with Portuguese the answers reveal themselves.  There is only one verb in Portuguese for “to do” and “to make.”  Therefore students are going to be confused about why you “make the bed” and “do research.”  In the same way, the direct translation from Portuguese to English leads to “making a question” instead of “asking a question.”  Bingo!

English class in downtown Recife

These types of observations have led to grammar workshops on topics like Do vs Make and Phrasal Verbs.  Don’t worry friends, when the students asked if I could present on phrasal verbs I calmly nodded while frantically running a Google search on my phone (“What are phrasal verbs?”)  This has been the case more than once!  You rarely study your native language.  So I have learned a great deal about English along they way.  For those of you who are still wondering, a phrasal verb is a verb and particle that together have a meaning unique from the words separately.  For example, “get up” means “wake up.”  But “get” and “up” separately mean something else.  We have thousands of these in English and we love to use them.  Get up, get out, get in, get off… etc.

One of my favorite workshops was on colloquial phrases and idioms in English.  Sometimes I look back on a text message I sent and realize I hardly use anything else!  Students gave me a good laugh when they explained their idea of what phrases like these meant:

Grasping at straws
At my wits end
Fly by the seat of my pants
To get your foot in the door

Important phrases we use all the time, right?

But my role here is also to serve as a cultural ambassador.  This means giving presentations on university life in the United States and taking about student loans, dorms, and football games.  Many students hope to study in the United States or other English speaking countries so this information is also valuable.  It’s given me the chance to learn about Brazil along the way.

Last week we put together a Halloween presentation.  We decorated the classroom, had treats, and talked all about the history of Halloween (which I had to study).  I was happy as a lark trying to convey the beauty of fall.  Crisp mornings.  Colored leaves.  Apple and pumpkin flavored everything.  Can you put things like seasons into words for people who only know a rainy and a dry season?  I certainly tried!

Halloween class

At a Fulbright workshop in São Paulo we had to complete the sentence, “Teaching English in Brazil is ________________.”  I still don’t think I have one word to fill that gap, but in many ways it has been surprising.  I’ve come to love the English language in a way I’d never imagined.  It’s a limitless language that’s always changing and I hope that my excitement for it has made its way to the students I’ve interacted with.

So there ya have it!  A little piece of a big part of my time here!

Summer Travel Series: August

Here it is!  Part three of my summer travel series.  In August, I was able to mix plenty of work and fun with a big trip.  I first traveled to the capital of the state of Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte.  I met my friend Jesella to attend an international literacy conference at the Federal University of Minas Gerais.  The conference brought in speakers from around the world.  This time I was comfortable enough with Portuguese to listen to the speakers without the translating headphones.  Success!  The conference exposed me to different views on what literacy is and how things like graffiti and funky song lyrics influence literacy.  The Federal University campus was beautiful and had a homey feel that my university in Recife lacks.  There was green space for students to sit and read and an outdoor performance taking place while we ate lunch in the cafeteria.

We didn’t have much time to explore the city of Belo Horizonte during the day.  But we were able to find great restaurants at night.  Belo Horizonte is Brazil’s third largest city, so unfortunately that meant we also spent a good deal of time stuck in traffic.  My favorite spot was the contemporary art institute, Inhotim, located outside of Belo Horizonte.  We spent the day wandering through the never ending fusion of gardens and sculptures.  The pictures say much more than I could about the beauty of the institute.

Inhotim

From Belo Horizonte we made a sweep through Minas Gerais, visiting four colonial towns.  The first stop was Ouro Preto.  The old town was charming and packed with small jewelry shops and restaurants.  We visited a handful of the 23 churches and took way too many pictures!  My blood had clearly thinned from months of living in the coastal heat and I didn’t deal with the cold nights very well.  Our first night my half awake groggy self decided to put my towel, leather jacket, scarf, and whatever else I could find in my suitcase on top of my blanket for extra insulation. I am unsure if this helped.  Mind you – we were in what I would call a “thatched roof tiki hut style” hostel in a cold climate.  Poor planning on our part.

Praça Tiradentes in Ouro Preto

Mariana was our next stop on the trip.  It was a much smaller city than Ouro Preto.  We hopped around the churches for a day and toured an ancient gold mine.  São João del Rei was our next colonial town.  We stayed with two ETAs from our program who proved to be wonderful hosts.  The town felt like it had already seen its prime in the mining days, but Sam made sure we saw all that the city had to offer.  We explored the historic downtown and watched the sunset from the best spot in town.

The city of Mariana

Our final day trip was to the equally charming town of Tiradentes.  Every view caught my attention.

A walking tour of São João del Rei

Minas Gerais as a whole felt to me like the heartland of Brazil.  The towns tucked between small mountains and rolling hills reminded me of home (I realize there are no mountains in MN).  I was comforted by the landscape and enjoyed traveling by bus.

Touring the city of São João del Rei

A day trip into Tiradentes

From Minas Gerais we made our way to the city of São Paulo – the largest city in South America.  All Fulbright ETAs from Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay were meeting for the Mid-year Enhancement Seminar.  It was a wonderful couple of absolutely packed days.

ETAs outside of the Mercado Municipal

It all began with a loud reunion in the hotel lobby.  One-by-one we made our way from all over the country to the check-in desk.  You would think we were long lost family members instead of friends who had only been together for a few days at the orientation back in February.  We hugged, jumped up and down, and complimented the tans of those who lived near the coast.

Historic tour of São Paulo

The days of the seminar flew by.  We had meetings and workshops designed to reflect on our time thus far and set goals for the rest of our term.  We brainstormed, problem solved, and shared in the daily joys and struggles of ETA life.  By late afternoon we were free to explore.  And we did not take this opportunity lightly.  We ran all over town – to museums, historic churches, and giant markets.  We ended each day with a meal to end all meals.  São Paulo is the international hub of Brazil, a melting pot of immigrant groups.  For me this meant Chinese, Indian, and Korean food for dinner.  What a treat!

We left the seminar feeling full, clean (the hotel had hot water), and motivated to make our last few months in Brazil count.

Summer Travel Series: July

In July I took a mini trip to Rio de Janeiro to meet up with two friends who were previously in Guatemala for a mission trip.  We only had three days, but we packed in a lot of the city.

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Rio.  Some people had said it was “too touristy.”  Others worshipped the city.  I tried to stay open, but that only lasted about an hour.  The bus ride from the airport into the city was enough to hook me.  I was sold to the Cidade Maravilhosa.  I was pressed up against the window as we passed through the historic part of downtown.  It was so bad that the man next to me asked, “First time in Rio…?”  I realized I better scale back my excitement before I set off the tourist alarm.  But I couldn’t help it!  The expansive streets and lights hanging from the old trees were captivating.

Jacoby, Caroline, and I stayed in an apartment in the Estacio neighborhood.  Anyone who is familiar with Rio would ask, “Why in the world would you stay there?”  But, as it was a weekend during the World Cup, we were lucky to find anywhere to stay.  The apartment left something to be desired, but it was affordable and it was ours.

On our first day we followed the Lonely Planet walking tour through downtown Rio.  We strolled the bustling avenues, peeked into the historic buildings and theaters, and stopped in the most immaculate cafe I’ve ever seen.

A bite to eat in Rio

Our afternoon goal was to see Sugarloaf Mountain.  We heard that it was best at sunset and made every effort to time it just right.  Unfortunately, tourists from around the world had the same idea.  The lines were wrapped around the corner and down the street.  Men peddling boiled corn on the cob were making a killing off of the hungry tourists.  Luckily our spirits were high and we had plenty of cute soccer fans to keep us company.  We saw the sunset as we were waiting for the cable car to take us to the top.  Once we made it we had a stunning view of Rio lite up by night.

Rio from the top of Sugarloaf Mountain

Our next day was equally packed.  We started with a morning visit to Parque Lage.  We took in the beautiful gardens and even saw monkeys in the trees.  Then we made our way to the beach.  We took on the overwhelming and infamous Copacabana.  The beach in Rio was unlike any I had seen because it’s framed by mountains.  That was what really made Rio distinct for me.  The city feels like it was built right into the mountains.  Copacabana beach was absolutely wild.  The FIFA Fan Fest was taking place at the end of the beach, so soccer fans were all gathering to watch the Brasil v. Colombia game.  We decided to seek out a little more space to watch the game.  Every restaurant we stopped in was packed until we found a tiny corner bar.  In plastic chairs right on the sidewalk we watched as Brasil fought to stay in the World Cup.  The entire city came alive when the game ended.

We watched the game here!

Our final day in Rio started at Christ the Redeemer.  Just like Sugarloaf Mountain, it was swarming with tourists.  But what do you expect on a Saturday during the World Cup?  We opted for the vans to the top that were sold by a third party company because the train tickets were already sold out through noon.  From the top we had a wonderful view of Rio, took a few pictures, and were then ready to get out of the crowds!  Our final stop was Lapa – the “bohemian” neighborhood of Rio.  We wandered through a market, had a great lunch, and visited the Escadaria Selarón.  This is a mosaic staircase that was created by a Chilean artist as a tribute to the Brazilian people.  It was absolutely worth a visit and provided a great place for pictures.

Escadaria Selarón

We were sad to leave Rio after such a short visit.  I think we only scratched the surface of the city.  But Jacoby and Caroline followed me to Recife for a few more days of adventure.  I was able to show them some of my favorite spots and we relaxed a bit more on the beach.  Look for more pictures from the trip in my gallery here.

The arches of Lapa

Summer Travel Series: June

I’ve decided to do a three part blog on my summer travels.  Technically it is winter here in the southern hemisphere, but June/July/August will always be summer to me.  I’ve visited some amazing places in Brazil and they deserve a little description.

I had two weeks of vacation in June because of the World Cup.  While the world flocked to the big host cities in Brazil, I chose to escape the madness and visit some of the smaller towns.  Recife was actually a host city for the World Cup, and the few days leading up to the event were a disaster with traffic and tourists.  I was happy to say “sayonara.”  

I flew out of Recife on the opening day of the World Cup (gasp).  Incidentally that meant I was the only person in my row on the airplane.  What a treat!  I met my travel buddy Zoe in Porto Alegre where we began our adventures.  I found Porto Alegre to be the most magical city.  I’ve done a fair amount of traveling and I still consider it my favorite place.  It was freezing while we were there, but that didn’t stop us.  We visited the big market, the central plaza, and the art museum.  There are quite a few ETAs living in Porto Alegre, so we were lucky enough to stay with one and visit with all of them during our stay.  

Out in Porto Alegre with Catherine & Julia

The following day we took a trip to Gramado.  The guide book described it as a Swiss mountain village and it was spot-on!  We popped into small chocolate shops and sipped on hot coffee.  We also fought the misty rain and walked around the Lago Negro.  Then we ended the day with a fantastic fondue meal in a cozy fire lit restaurant.  Can you imagine a better day?

The rainiest of days in Gramado

Our next stop was São Miguel das Missoes.  São Miguel das Missoes is a small village that houses some of the best preserved Brazilian Missions.  By missions, I mean Jesuit communities that were established to convert the native people of Brazil to Catholicism.  There are 30 missions between Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina.  We spent the day wandering amongst the ruins and the museum nearby.  It felt mystical and eerie.  For a while we were the only people there.

After a few bus rides we found ourselves in Cambará do Sul.  This city proved to be even colder than São Miguel and we were happy to rent a room with a heated blanket!  The sleepy town is the base for two national parks that are described as the Brazilian Grand Canyon.  We didn’t have much of a plan going into our day so we stopped by the little cafe in town to ask about a taxi.  All the hikes are only accessible by car.  The owner of the cafe also happened to be a taxi driver!  She grabbed a water, a few snacks, and the newspaper, and closed up shop for the day.  She agreed to be our driver!  

Yes, I am wearing a winter jacket in Brazil.

We were some of the few visitors to both the Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra and the Parque Nacional da Serra Geral.  The Lonely Planet described the views perfectly, “vast uninspired pasturelands give way to a series of stunning canyons, where the earth opens up and drops to depths of 720m.”  We hiked multiple trails and took countless pictures.  

The following day we were on the road again.  This time heading to a bigger city – Florianópolis.  The city was stunning.  Lively, beachy, and packed with great restaurants.  Even the drive from the bus station to our hostel was beautiful.  We were eager to be in a warmer place with a little more action.  Although not a host city, we found Floripa to be full of tourists.  We joined in the World Cup excitement and watched a few games.  Zoe and I had some ETA jealousy toward the lucky gals that live in this city.  Moving around the city felt effortless and we were amazed to find peanut butter and stores selling chia seeds and gluten free bread!

I am serious about saving the sea turtles!

A few other highlights included seeing “A Fault in our Stars” where I cried so hard my scarf was soaked, and visiting the Tamar turtle refuge.  Our days were pretty leisurely with nice runs on the beach and great food.  Our last stop was a day trip to Blumenau.  This German city is known for its Oktoberfest celebration.  Once again we strolled the city and ended the day watching the USA Portugal game.  These two weeks proved to be such a treat.  We were able to escape some of the craziness and see a new side of Brazil.

 

 

A Few Quirks about Life in Brazil

I am sorry for taking a blogging hiatus.  I realize I disappeared for a while and am going to try and make it up with a new post, or maybe two?!  I have posted a few pictures from recent trips with no accompanying post.  They will come.

I’ve decided to compile a list of some of the quirks of Brazil, or maybe specifically Recife, you tell me. Some make me crazy, some are funny, and others are downright head-scratchers.

1. There are no bus schedules. Daily plan of action = stand outside and wait. You might get lucky and show up at the same time as the bus, or you might wait a half hour. No one knows.
2. All outlets are not created equal. In my apartment alone we have three different styles. Make up your mind Brazil.
   

   Various outlets in my apartment and a jar of adapters.

3. Ice cream cones are eaten with a tiny spoon.  In fact, everything is eaten with a utensil.  French fries are my favorite example.  Aren’t they just begging to be picked up?
4. On the subject of eating, people rarely touch food.  When a platter of brownies is passed around at an event, each person takes a napkin first and then uses it to select a brownie and hold it while they eat.  I commonly fill the role of the dirty American eating with her hands…
5. Ovens are tiny and rarely used. In my apartment our oven is used as additional storage space for the tea kettle.
6. All streets are named with words. There are no numbers. No 121st Avenue or 32nd Lane. And the names are extremely long. For example, I live off of Rua Barão de Souza Leão. Can you imagine trying to say that to a cab driver when you don’t speak Portuguese?
7. There are no screens on the windows. Most days we leave them wide open. This leads to an amazing breeze but can also bring in bugs and other surprises. I’ve seen a cat in my apartment on two separate occasions. We do not have a cat.
8. Kitchens have tiny sink-top garbage cans. They can be quite convenient for food scraps, but they don’t hold much more than a banana peel.
   

   Our countertop garbage can.  Notice the spoon for scale.

9. There are a few tried and true pairs that I’m used to that are missing in Brazil:
   1.  Salt and pepper — never see pepper on the table.
   2. Peanut butter and jelly — no peanut butter. So sad.
   3. Lemons and limes — lemons are a rarity. People frequently use the same word for lemon and lime. I am here to say they are not the same.

I’d be curious to hear if anyone has other funny things they’ve noticed!  Living abroad always provides these comparisons.

FIFA’s World Cup?

In Brazil, I frequently hear people refer to the World Cup as FIFA’s World Cup.  FIFA is the Swiss organization that coordinates the World Cup.  At first I thought, “How odd, why not call it’s Brazil’s World Cup?”  But after spending four months in Brazil, I’ve started to see things differently.

The reality is, many people in Brazil do not want the World Cup.  Most people I’ve met are frustrated and angry.  This is not because people don’t love soccer.  But rather, because they know there is more to life than soccer.  The Brazilian government has spent over $11 billion dollars in preparation for the World Cup.  Much of this has gone into the construction of new stadiums in the 12 host cities.  This is money that could have been spent investing in what Brazil needs – hospitals, schools, and roads.  In the past year, many Brazilians have taken to the streets to reiterate this point.  Some in the form of protests and others with street art that leaves no doubt in my mind that this is not Brazil’s World Cup.

Brazil’s president, Dilma Rousseff, has continually defended the spending that has made this the most expensive World Cup in history.  “We did this, above all, for Brazilians,” she said yesterday.  Personally, I have not seen improvements to the city of Recife that will benefit the population once the Cup is over.  If anything, the Cup has just caused prices to increase and forced people from their homes.  In São Paulo, the people are fighting back.  In the past few weeks thousands of families have put up tents near the World Cup stadium in what they call the “Peoples’ Cup.”  These families can no longer afford to rent in São Paulo.  They are hoping to get the government and the world’s attention during the World Cup.  They are asking the government to create subsidized housing on the land for low income families.

Despite the surge of tourists, it is not predicted that the World Cup will provide any financial gain for Brazil.  The profits made from the Cup will instead benefit FIFA.  One month from now the tourists will return home and Brazil will be left with incomplete infrastructure and 12 stadiums.  So for this reason I too think that this is FIFA’s World Cup.

Despite all this negativity, the World Cup is going to start tomorrow and Brazil will still support their national team.  Everywhere I look I see yellow and green.  The woman next to me on the bus yesterday had a Brazilian french manicure – yellow nails with green tips.  The grocery store is selling yellow and green toilet paper.  You name it!  My intention in writing this post wasn’t to crush the spirit of the World Cup.  I’m excited to follow the games, but I also think it’s important to think about who is really benefiting here.

Sources:
http://edition.cnn.com/2014/06/11/world/americas/brazil-world-cup-tent-city/index.html?hpt=hp_c3
http://mashable.com/2014/05/23/brazilian-painting-world-cup/

Brazil’s Capital of Happiness

The Pelourinho

During the first week of May I traveled with a group of ETAs to Salvador to attend a conference.   Salvador is the third largest city in Brazil, after São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.  It is the capital of the state of Bahia and is referred to as Brazil’s Capital of Happiness.    

We spend the weekend leading up to the conference sightseeing.  In my opinion, the city was easy to navigate.  I later realized that was likely because everyone in our group had the Lonely Planet Brazil book and had done their reading.  I do not have said book and comfortably took on the role as tag along photographer.  The historic city center, called the Pelourinho, was colorful and full energy.  I was also thrilled to find postcards!  Thus far in Recife every postcard I’ve seen looks like it has been sitting in the same place since 1998.  Faded and dusty.  So I logically bought about 10 at the first store.

The International Public Communication of Science and Technology Conference takes place every two years.  This was the first time the conference was held in South America and the theme was “Science communication for social inclusion and political engagement.”  The days started with plenary sessions and then continued with various lectures and workshops.  The first session started out in Portuguese and we all sat in the auditorium feeling awfully cool because we understood the three languages that would be used during the conference: Portuguese, Spanish, and English.  It didn’t take long for us to realize we weren’t quite there for Portuguese.  Sheepishly we dipped out one at a time to pick up translating devices.

The PCST Conference

The conference left me with some big questions regarding how to bridge the gap between science and the rest of the world.  Who do you think of when you think of a scientist?  A old, white man with a beaker… in a laboratory?  Science is not just a subject that kids study in school.  Science is a part of our everyday lives!  But changes need to happen to bridge the huge gaps that exist between scientists and educators and scientists and policy makers.  A discipline cannot thrive if it’s perceived to be boring, complex, and practiced in a tall tower.

After the conference we headed to the wilderness – Chapada Diamantina.  We stayed in a great little hostel in the city of Lençois.  The staff were so good to us and always made sure we were up in time for breakfast.  I personally loved the panini press and the avocado tree — just imagine the possibilities.  We spent a few days hiking, swimming, and exploring caves.  We even went snorkeling in a cave, flashlights in hand!  Each night we would return with just enough energy for dinner.  We were real party animals.  This was my first experience doing multiple hikes in one day.  I’ve always been a supporter of hiking, but I thought it was a singular activity.  As in, you go “on a hike.”  I had no idea people went on three in a row over the course of one day.  I felt like a warrior by the end of the trip.

Chapada Diamantina

Overall the trip was a success.  I was so happy to spend time with my fellow ETAs and see a new side of Brazil.

Easter in the Lençóis Maranhenses

Over Semana Santa (Holy Week) I left Recife to see a new side of Brazil.  Some of the ETAs from Teresina, Recife, and Fortaleza met in São Luís, the capital of the state of Maranhão, to take-on the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.  Quite a mouthful, right?  Rather than visiting the more touristy city of Barreirinhas, we ended up in the quiet town of Santo Amaro.  It was not our intention to stay in this tiny town, but a complicated series of events ended with us renting a house there.

Here begins our trek.  We were picked up by van at 3 in the morning for the first leg of the journey.  By 7 am we had literally reached the end of the road and moved from the van into 4-wheel-drive open air trucks.  Sleepy eyed and hungry we began part two, a bumpy ride along the dirt roads.  An hour later the thrill of this ride had worn off.  Each time we asked the guide how much longer, he would respond with “Not long at all, very close, only 20 minutes more.”  Around 9 am we pulled into the town of Santo Amaro.  We unpacked our bags and renewed our spirits with two important things: a nap and breakfast.

Lençóis Maranhenses

When it came time for our afternoon excursion I was still feeling like I’d been hit by a truck.  But the scenery to follow completely changed my mood.  Within minutes we were in a completely new world.  Sand dunes as far as we could see filled with fresh water that was completely untouched.  We stopped at our first dune and swam in the crystal waters.  The following day was similar.  We spent the entire day splashing in these remote dunes.  My favorite was the very last stop.  This lagoon was steep and we swam as the evening was beginning to set-in.  Our drive back was one stunning sunset.  This was how I spent Easter Sunday, marveling at nature.

Sunday night we decided to get creative and cook dinner together.  A few of us ventured to the corner market to pick-up ingredients.  The original plan: pasta carbonara.  The result: where do I begin?  We had great intentions and minimal resources.  Odd tasting pasta, sauteed onions and carrots, questionably raw eggs, and a separated cheese/butter/milk sauce.  Our side salad and dessert proved to be much more successful.  And yet, there we sat, and most of us ate the pasta.  We couldn’t help but laugh as we looked at our plates.

Monday morning we returned to São Luís.  I was lucky enough to get to stay with Shannon, one of the ETAs living in the city.  The few days we spent in São Luís were wonderful.  I was happy to be somewhere a little quieter than Recife and loved spending time with the three Fulbrighters in São Luís.  They all live with host families who also welcomed us with open arms.  I even experienced my first big Brazilian family style churrasco (barbecue).  Returning to Recife on Wednesday morning I felt refreshed and ready to get back to work.

 

Some of my Favorite Things

At the end of March, we had a few visitors come into town.  Our fellow ETA’s Mike and Erik, who are teaching in Teresina, had a break and decided to do some touring of the coast.  When they arrived they were eager to see our favorite spots in town.  Alicia and I realized that our view of Recife was extremely limited.  We had hardly seen the city at all!  The weekend served as a great eye-opener for all of us and I realized just how much I love Recife.  Here are a couple of my favorite parts of the downtown area.

Marco Zero

Boating out to the sculpture park

This plaza along the water is an easy meeting point in the heart of Recife Antigo.  It marks the starting point of the city.  On the weekends the plaza is filled with popcorn vendors, teenagers showing off their skateboard tricks, and friends strolling around the open area.  The plaza has great views of the historic buildings in downtown.  Erik and I took a rickety boat from the plaza to a sculpture park just across the bay.  This $2.00 ride was definitely worth it!  The sculptures didn’t do much for us, but the views were great and the boat ride was entertaining.

Beautiful views during sunset. It took a lot of patience to get this picture!

Sunday nights in Recife Antigo are especially eventful.  The Minnesotan in me was caught off-guard when I first learned this.  In my experience, Sunday nights are for folding laundry, packing Monday’s lunch, and getting to bed early.  In Recife, Sunday nights are about family.  People head into downtown for live music, dancing, and a treat like a tapioca or macaxeira.  (Maybe I need to do a food post, hu?)  Now that I’m out of school, I love this idea!  Why not stretch the weekend out?  The government has put a lot of effort into encouraging these Sunday night events and making the downtown a safe place for families.

Paço do Frevo

Learning to dance frevo.

This museum tells the story of the music and dance of Frevo.  This folk-style music got its start in Recife and can be heard all throughout Carnaval.  The word frevo is believed to have come from the word ‘ferver,’ which means ‘to boil’ in Portuguese.  This gives you an idea of the playful, upbeat nature of the music.  The museum is beautiful and has three full floors of entertainment.  We were lucky enough to get a personal tour from a guide who spoke both English and Portuguese.  She walked us through the highlights and was able to explain any words we didn’t know when we got stuck with Portuguese.  We ended the tour with a frevo dance tutorial.

Embaixada dos Bonecos Gigantes

This was a hilarious little find.  We weren’t sure if we should pay to enter, but the pictures prove it was worth it.  This museum houses all of the puppets used during the Carnaval parades.  We played around with the props and got some great pictures with famous Brazilians and Americans.

Joining the University chorus

The University Convention Center, where the choir rehearses.

One of the things I really wanted to continue while abroad was singing in a choir.  I’ve bounced around over the years from the Andover High School choir to the Drake Community chorus and the University of MN campus singers.  Last fall I was also lucky enough to join my church choir with my grandma.  I love the sense of community that you find in a choir and wanted to seek out such a group here.  As things usually go in Brazil, it was a challenge to discover when and where the choirs were rehearsing.  But my comrades came through to connect me to the right people.  Last week was our first rehearsal and I was welcomed like you wouldn’t believe!  I fumbled through the building to make my way to the fourth floor rehearsal space and walked in late (it was the bus…not me).  I introduced myself and was met with a series of “oohs and aaahs.”  The director had just told the group only minutes earlier that an America would be joining the choir.  They happen to be singing multiple songs in English for the first concert!  What are the odds?!  Then they learned my name was just like Whitney Houston AND I was an alto.  People love Whitney Houston and apparently no one wants to sing alto.  I have never felt so special.  I may need to seek out additional choirs in Brazil when I’m feeling down.

The rehearsal itself was lovely.  The group is made up of students, faculty, and community members from around Recife who all love to sing.  And what’s more beautiful than that?  People coming together each week to make something honest with such simple intentions.  Some of the older members of the group have been participating for many years and the director has the perfect personality to get a group moving.  This semester we are singing a few southern gospel songs in English.  As many of the members don’t speak English, I am now serving as the “expert in the language.”  I’ve been asked to do a call and repeat for all of the songs in front of the group.  They asked that I read in my “most black” voice.  But I found this inappropriate and mildly funny.  I chose to simply read the words as I would sing them.  Certain words that were challenging included: chariot, our, knees, Lord, and gonna.

International students at UFPE. Notice my little head peeking in the back right.

Another exciting discovery was that the University UFPE has a good deal of international students.  I was invited to attend a “meet and greet” type event with all the international students at the Dean’s office.  It never fails to amaze me how people from all over the world find themselves in Recife, Brazil.  I especially love listening to people from other countries speak Portuguese as a second language.  The French really have a neat accent – and they know it.  After learning a bit about the University, we had ample free time to mingle and enjoy a ridiculous amount of treats.  Sweet and savory for days and strong coffee.  Together these make for very happy foreigners.  In the afternoon, we took a field trip to the Oficina Brennand.  It is a stunning old factory that houses the work of Brazilian sculptor and painter Francisco Brennand.  Tucked away near the university I never would have guessed such a sight existed in Recife.  I think the pictures speak much better than I can about the site. There are more photos in my gallery.

Oficina Brennand